Electric bicycles are the future of cycling for most people and the electric-assisted power on bicycle somehow improve people’s riding experience. E-bikes are popular because they’re quiet, non-polluting, and can make cycling a lot more fun for a lot more people. E-bikes change lives and energize your ride!
There are three basic classes/types of electric bikes:
1. Type 1 Ebike: Pedal assist, is an electric bicycle on which you must pedal in order to use the motor. It’s just like a conventional bicycle except that there’s a motor that senses that you’re pedaling and kicks in to aid the pedaling effort. It feels like you have the best tailwind of your life on a permanent basis. This class/type of E-bike may or may not have a throttle.
2. Type 2 Ebike: Throttle only, is an e-bike equipped with a motor controlled by a throttle. On these electrics, you don’t have to pedal to benefit from the motor. When you want power, just crank the throttle, and away you go. You’ll be able to accelerate in the middle of a corner thus increasing traction. Of course, the less you pedal, the sooner you run out of juice in the battery.
3. Type 3 Ebike: Pedal assist 28mph, this class/type is the fastest “legal” e-bike with a maximum speed of 28mph. Still considered a “bicycle” and does not require a driver’s license, license plate, etc. By law, a helmet is required. Typically this category would be best for someone commuting on their bike.

The thing that will kill your battery faster than anything else is leaving it charged at elevated temperatures. If it’s 80 degrees outside and you have your e-bike fully charged, move it indoors where it’s cooler and try to drain the battery as soon as possible.
Charge your battery at room temperature as often as possible.
When sourcing an e-bike battery charger, the slower the charge rate the better. For example, if you have a 2-Amp charger, and your battery is a 14Ah battery pack, you are charging at 14Ah / 2Amp = 7 hours. This is a nice, slow charge which will certainly improve the longevity of your battery pack. Avoid charging at rates that are faster than 2-hours for a full charge.

Size, weight and shape, are three things to consider when making a decision on what battery pack to buy. It has to fit and not be too heavy and should look good once installed on your bike. You will likely not find all the ideal factors in a pack but some are vital, while others are not as much.
The most common mistake that many e-bikers make is to want a HUGE battery, this is all fine and great until you have to figure out how to mount it on your e-bike, and then it gets worse when you need to carry it up a flight of stairs or put it on a bike rack!
The key to an ideal setup is to have the lightest and smallest possible battery pack that will get the job done. The first step, determine your needs. Most people rarely go more than 20 miles at a time without stopping ( 32 km ), usually much less. However, people often go out for multiple rides in a day. Going out for a short errand and then plugging in the charger can be quick and convenient, and 30 minutes later you can go out again with a full charge if needed. An e-bike with a small battery pack is lighter, costs less is far more enjoyable to ride, and can be charged quickly while providing all the range you need even if it’s not all on a single charge.
A vast majority of the time, a lightweight e-bike is what most of us need. For example, LN Energy 36v 10ah lithium-ion battery pack with 360 wh of capacity. (36 volts times 10 amp hours equals 360-watt hours). This pack would in theory provide 36 km of range, or 22 miles, from a full 100% charge.

The range of a battery pack depends on the amount of energy packed inside of it and is measured in Watt-Hours (Wh). Watt-hours are calculated by multiplying the battery capacity, in Amp-hours by the battery Voltage, in Volts.
Amp-Hours (Ah) x Voltage (V) = Watt-Hours (Wh)
14Ah x 36V = 504Wh
Approximate:
1-mile requires 25Wh
504Wh x (1mile/20Wh) = 25 miles
Let’s assume that, on average, 1mile requires about 25Wh of energy. So a 14Ah 36V battery should get you about 25 miles per charge.
Keep in mind that the weight of the rider, outside temperature conditions, and the amount of pedaling will make a significant difference in range.
A word of caution: the range that e-bike manufacturers provide is generated from tests that are run in perfectly tailored lab conditions. We should assume that the manufacturer’s specified range is delivered only if the battery is charged and discharged under ideal conditions i.e. not real-world conditions.
For a more realistic estimate, shave off 15% of the manufacturer specified range and assume this padded number to be your real range. If you’re looking for a longer range, choose a battery that has a higher capacity(Ah). If you are looking for more power, choose a battery that has a higher voltage(V).

That’s everything you need to know about charging an electric bike battery. To summarise, here are the key dos and don’ts when it comes to maximising your battery’s service life:
Do’s
Charge an e-bike indoors in a dry location at room temperature.
Regularly charge the battery when not using your e-bike for prolonged periods of time.
Clean the battery with a damp cloth and always remove the battery before cleaning your bike.

Don’ts
Use an unapproved charger as this could invalidate the warranty.
Let the battery fully drain when stored for prolonged periods of time.
Expose the battery to direct water contact when either cleaning the battery itself or the e-bike.

There are several factors that affect the lifespan of a battery such as:
Environmental conditions: temperature during charging and discharging.
Charging rate: how fast or slow your battery is charged.
Charging voltage: what voltage the battery is charge to.
Depth of discharge (DoD): what voltage the battery is discharge to.
Batteries decay as a function of time in the charged state. Here’s an example:
Day 1: You get your new e-bike and charge it up to 100% and go on a bike ride. When you come home, you charge the bike back up to 100% and you’re excited to ride it again soon.
Day 2 – Day 364: Life gets in the way and you will haven’t been out on your bike since that first ride.
Day 365: One year later, it’s the perfect day for a bike ride and you finally have some time on your hands. You head to your basement, unlock your bike, and excitedly turn it on. 80% charge. What? You clearly remember charging your bike to 100% last year before moving it to the basement!
The truth is, we can’t beat thermodynamics. Batteries decay as a function of time in the charged state.
Now, because you left your battery at 100% for a whole year in a basement with no temperature control, you inadvertently caused your battery to lose a certain amount of irreversible capacity. Your range will be -20% lower and you’ll likely have to replace your battery sooner than you expected. The table below shows you how much recoverable capacity exists in a battery after storing it at different temperatures and different charge states for 1 year.

Table above: Estimated recoverable capacity when storing Li-ion for one year at various temperatures. Elevated temperature hastens permanent capacity loss Not all Li-ion systems behave the same.
Table above from Battery University
This is why a lot of electronics come with batteries that are only partially charged, to help slow down this decay. It’s hard to track how long ebikes and their batteries have been sitting in warehouses before being delivered to your door so you could get a battery that has been decaying for a year or two.
Manufacturers also tend to overrate their batteries and will make claims about certain batteries having a lifetime of at least 1000 cycles.
The lifetime of a lithium-ion battery is described as the number of cycles until the capacity (Ah) drops below 80% of it’s initial capacity. In general, this is roughly 250-400 cycles (depending on battery chemistry and other factors) which amounts to roughly 1.5 to 2 years if you charge & discharge daily and care for your battery properly.

High standard quality control in the manufacturing process is one of the most important factors of most business success, we arranged QC inspection on each step, on some important part, the product and its multiple parameters (size, weights, voltage, capacity, impedance, and equipment temperature, environmental conditions, etc,) can be tested by several different people, we determine to stop all possible problems before it goes to the client, it’s our rule and our responsibility.
Our inspections start from the very beginning of material purchased, then the first production step material mixing, then coating, after over 20 processes, ends up with delivery to clients.
Another guarantee is from our skilled workers, most of who will accept one-week training before starting their job in LN Energy manufacturing workshops, it saves a lot of production time for customer orders, meantime necessary training improved their skills which leads to lower defects rate in manufacturing.

Yes. Electric bikes come waterproofed right from the factory able to ride in the rain. However, water can still damage the motor or the battery if they are submerged. Also high water pressure can allow water to get into the circuitry inside the electronics causing problems. Like a normal bike, water is ok but should be avoided if you can. Water never “helps”.